Versace. Vera Wang. Dolce & Gabbana. The list goes on and on. Today we know these designers as major icons in the fashion industry. However, it goes without saying that if it were not for the efforts and contributions of Coco Chanel, many of the staples and fashion designs we’ve come to know and love may not exist. This innovative woman made strides during her time that ultimately set her up for greatness and every fashion designer, fashionista and stylist (among many others) should thank Coco Chanel for all that she has accomplished.

Born Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel in France back in the late 1800s, her young life was spent in a Catholic monastery with her other siblings after the death of their mother and the abandonment of their father. It was during these years that the young designer-to-be learned how to sew. However, after turning 18 and leaving the orphanage, Gabrielle went to the French town of Moulins, where she dubbed herself “Coco” during her attempt to become a cabaret singer. When those plans fell through, Coco ended up falling for a rich textile heir, who introduced her to the finer things in life and helped Coco set up her first shop.

Surprisingly, hats became Coco’s first passion. Using her sewing skills she began creating all sorts of styles and designs that slowly but surely became popular in demand with customers. After this first success, Coco expanded her shop to include the sale of jackets and raincoats. However, Coco really made waves in the fashion world by introducing her take on clothing made of jersey material. Establishing her fashion house in the 1920s, Coco Chanel began offering all sorts of fashionable items for women to enjoy, including casual wear, short skirts and pants suits, which were virtually unheard of in women’s fashion at the time. Coco herself loved wearing men’s fashions and was easily able to transform them into something more flattering on the female form.

In addition to hats and clothes, she eventually created her now famous Chanel No. 5 perfume. Other notable successes that Coco Chanel is widely known for include the stylish cardigan jacket and the little black dress, which has grown to become one of the most must-have items in every woman’s closet.

It was not just Coco Chanel’s innovativeness when it came to fashion that made her iconic—it was her views on the role of women in society that contributed to her popularity. While she saw nothing wrong with a woman assuming a more mannish style of dress, she equally believed that every woman should be able to express her own individuality and femininity through the types of clothing she chose to wear. During a time when independent women were often looked down upon and even gossiped about, Coco ignored her critics and continued to do what she did best: express her creativity. Undoubtedly, this paved the way for many women during her time and has definitely carried over into our perceptions of male and female roles today. Additionally, her eye for fashion and sophistication still remains, decades after her death.

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