Even if you have the most difficult hair on the planet, there are some simple style tricks that will help you look like you’ve just stepped out of an expensive salon when all your primping was done in front of your bathroom mirror. The real truth about great styling is that you just have to know where to start and you have to let your hair lead. When you’ve mastered those two common mistakes you’ll be able to see any style and make it your own.

Rule #1 is to learn your hair. Wash, condition and allow your hair to air dry. Let it fall where it may. It will find a natural part all by itself. Don’t fight cowlicks or curls or anything else your crazy locks try to pull. Once your hair is dry, take a good look at it. If your bangs part straight down the middle, go with it. If they part to the “wrong” side, give that a try. You can always fight your hair into a submissive style, but it will look much better and hold a style much longer if you allow it to speak for itself. Once you’ve determined all the quirks your hair has, you can make any style work around those quirks and save yourself a big headache.

Now that you know which way to part, curl and slick back your hair, let’s look at styling tricks. For old school kinky waves go old school and take a look at the new crimping irons. They have flattering new wave molds and work just as well as they ever did. To get the most out of your crimp and end up with waves like Natalie Portman, apply a light gel to wet hair, blow dry until barely damp and crimp in the direction your hair falls naturally. It you plan to pull your hair back be sure to crimp in the direction you want your hair to go.

For old Hollywood curls and waves, start with wet hair, apply gel and create an S-curve with a comb. Pin the curves and allow hair to air dry. Remove the pins and spritz with a setting spray. For fuller, bouncier curls just like the movies, pull out the hot rollers. They work like a charm and hold tight all day. For fine hair, spritz holding spray on each combed strand before you roll it.

Let’s talk color. Want to go dark? Patience is your virtue and your key to amazing hair. Unless you’re already almost jet black or close to the shade you want to end up with, get there in stages, especially if you have fair skin. Dark hair can look great with low lights in honey or lighter brown tones, but skip the blonde streaks – too fake. To boost dark color or to add dimension, ask your stylist to add low lights in a combination of one and two shades lighter and then finish with a gloss. High shine is your ticket to wow!

Thinking about platinum? Be sure to budget for staggered highlights that don’t look fake like all over highlights do. You’ll also be glad to have splurged for a strengthening treatment to prevent breakage. Do a protein treatment every month and you’ll look like you were born with those sun kissed tresses.

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