You look in the mirror one morning and, to your dismay, you notice a dime-sized grayish-brown mark on your cheekbone. Or, you have acne scars from your teen-aged years that have never faded. Your first impulse is to cover the area with layers of concealer and foundation, but we know that this ends up in patchy, telltale lines. Fortunately, scientists, chemists and cosmetic companies have been working overtime to create over-the-counter products that produce effective results and can help treat and minimize common skin care concerns. Before you rush out and purchase a jar of old-school fading cream, here is a quick guideline of key ingredients to look for when selecting a skincare treatment product.

If you experience:

Acne Breakouts (For All Age Groups)

Start with cleansers, moisturizers and weekly exfoliating treatments containing 0.5-2% salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that deep cleans the pores without overdrying. If salicylic acid is not strong enough, advance to products containing benzoyl peroxide and tea tree oil.

For acne scars, choose a lightening serum containing botanical based lighteners such as grapeseed extract, mulberry or bearberry. Always exfoliate at least once per week to deep clean pores and prevent dead skin cell buildup, which can make the complexion look dull and highlight any scars.

Visible Pores

Unfortunately, pore size is genetically controlled and we cannot physically make pores look smaller.   However, there are clever products that will help minimize their appearance and oil production. Try products containing silica powder (helps absorb excess oil), willow bark extract (prevents clogged pores) or microspheres (reduce oil production). Apply these pore-minimizing treatments on top of cleansed, moisturized skin, either alone or under makeup.

Dull, Patchy Skin

Results from a lack of cell turnover and dead skin cell buildup. Choose products containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic (derived from sugar cane), malic (apple), tartaric (grape) or lactic (milk). Also look for products containing Vitamin C, which will help brighten the complexion.

Fine Lines

One recent and popular ingredient found in serums is hyaluronic acid, a jelly-like substance that holds its weight in water by 1000 times. Suitable for preventing moisture loss but may be too strong for easily irritated skin. If this occurs, use a serum containing Vitamin C, which helps promote collagen production (responsible for giving skin its elasticity).

Dark Spots (Sun or Age)

Choose products carefully since each person’s degree of sensitivity will vary. Best bets are to choose products containing botanical skin lighteners, including strawberry, blueberry, raspberry, mulberry, bearberry and licorice, which are especially suitable for sensitive or very dry skin. Other key ingredients include Vitamin C, soy and glycolic acid.

Also Remember:

·    Wear SPF everyday! Protect your new investment and prevent any future damage.

·    Exfoliate 1-2 times per week to promote cell turnover (once for dry, normal and combination skin and twice if needed for very oily/breakout prone skin) and allow products to be absorbed more effectively in the skin.

·    Always try a take-home sample of the product to test for any sensitivity or reactions. Along with smelling and feeling the product, the true test is to place a small amount along the jawbone.

·    Before you purchase, make sure the cosmetic/skincare rep asks you some brief questions, including your existing skincare routine, products you’ve already tried and allergies to certain products. If they don’t ask, make sure you let them know.

·    Allow approximately 28 days to see any results (just like weight loss, results may vary).

·    If OTC products are not effective, always see a dermatologist.

·    Avoid products containing mercury, steroids or over 2% of hydroquinone (only use the last one if prescribed by a dermatologist).

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