Dermatologists have told us for years that reclaiming a youthful complexion is a near impossibility. Of course we didn’t listen, did we? Thankfully neither have the cosmetics companies. From high-powered dermatologist-applied peels to the more mild at-home versions, chemical peels have come a long way in the last several years. Even better yet, the results have begun to encroach on that realm of impossibility. With reports of shrunken pores, fading lines and vanishing age spots, peels are gaining popularity with the public and respect in dermatological circles.

So what’s in a peel? The common active ingredient you will find is acid. The type of acid and its concentration is what determines the aggressiveness of the peel. Trichloroacetic acid is probably the most intense ingredient you will find. This acid is present in what is called a medium peel and only available from a licensed dermatologist. Glycolic acid is less harsh than trichloroacetic acid, but is still one of the more intense acids you will find in a mild peel. More mild than glycolic is lactic acid and the mildest of the common acids is fruit acid. Depending on whether it is an at-home treatment, one applied by a dermatologist or one applied at a spa, one of these acids will be the ingredient responsible for the results.

And just what can you expect from a peel? Well, like the packaging says, results may vary, but here is a basic rundown. The purpose of a peel is simply that – to peel off the upper layer or layers of skin to reveal the youthful (and smoother) skin underneath. Mild peels simply remove the dead skin layers on the top, but a deep enough peel can remove some healthy skin to get to the root of fine lines and wrinkles and an aggressive enough peel can even erase age spots and precancerous growths.

A mild do-it-yourself peel will give you short-term results lasting a few days that include softer, more supple skin and diminished appearance of pores and lines. The good news is that even through the effects are short-lived; these peels are mild enough to be applied up to three times a week. Look for acid concentrations around the 10% level for safe at home application. Your skin may be pink and slightly sensitive immediately after the peel, but should return to normal within a few hours.

For deeper, longer-lasting results, a more intense peel may be in order. You may choose to visit a dermatologist or a spa for one of these treatments. For mild peels, spas can often offer the same results for less money, but when you get into the more aggressive peels, a dermatologist is your best bet for both safety and experience. With acid concentrations in the 20% range, these peels are the ones that start to turn back the years. After one of these peels, your skin will be flushed and much more susceptible to sunburn for a few days. The good news is that makeup can be applied right away.

For the deepest and most permanent results, you may be interested in a medium peel from your dermatologist. Don’t let the word “medium” fool you though; these acid concentrations are much higher – between 35 and 50% – and the recovery time much longer – up to two weeks. After one of these peels, your skin will eventually scab, but the results can be more than worth it. Dermatologists agree that these peels can erase a decade’s worth of sun damage and, in some cases, even remove age spots and those precancerous growths we talked about earlier.

Depending on the condition of your skin and the results you are looking for, a peel just might be the answer to your pursuit of a younger-looking face.

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