A recent study showed that 26% of women have broken out in a rash from using the wrong product for their skin. What that tells you is no surprise to dermatologists – women are terrible at self-diagnosing their skin type and what they need. Sadly, most of the women behind our favorite cosmetic counters are as bad as the rest of us. Whether it’s because they are limited by their product line (and their bottom line) or just for lack of knowledge, a recent undercover shopping mission showed that those hard-working ladies are as off-track as we are. So, beware of anyone who claims they can solve all your skincare needs with one product plan.

Here’s what leading New York dermatologists said to do for these common skin problems: For dry, sensitive skin with occasional redness you should be using a rich moisturizer and a sunscreen of SPF 15 or higher with both UVA and UVB protection in your everyday skincare routine. Use a hydrating cleanser. For real results, start using a night cream moisturizer with niacinamide to help reduce redness and glucosamine for treating your hyperpigmentation. Be careful not to use products that will over-dry your skin, like alcohol-based toners. These will affect all your worse symptoms.

Combination/dry skin (dry forehead and cheeks, oily nose) is the most common skin type. If this is you, your skin responds best when you treat each area separately. On your entire face, go ahead and use a creamy cleanser, salicylic acid scrub and antioxidant products, especially those which contain idebenone. Consider adding a powder sunscreen to your daily all-over skincare routine. Powder sunscreens minimize the appearance of pores while protecting skin. In addition to these steps, add a pea-sized amount of oil control moisturizer to the nose and forehead. Moisturize with a rich cream on the rest of your face. Using dual moisturizers may just be the answer to your skincare prayers.  

If you have normal to oily, acne-prone skin and you have been using topical and/or oral prescriptions and/or birth control to help with breakouts, this is your combination. The first tip is to reassess your skincare in the winter. Switch to a milder cleanser and be sure to consult a dermatologist to evaluate your skin so you can use the right moisturizer. Using a moisturizer with retinol to help reduce visible acne and large pores will also make a world of difference for you. You also need a day cream formulated for your personal skin that isn’t fooled by environmental factors or your time of the month. Be cautious of everything you put on your skin. If you strip away all your natural oils, your skin will become even drier and more prone to breakouts.

For combination dry/oily skin that suffers from eczema, rosacea and breakouts, you need to always address your skin’s sensitivity. Use products that are free of fragrances, dyes and perfumes. A cleanser with salicylic acid that is specially formulated for sensitive skin will help with the breakouts – just don’t use it every day in the winter. When cold, dry weather hits, switch to a .05% concentration. You should really be using something that a dermatologist prescribes. Using over the counter cleansers and acne treatments will most likely result in eczema and rosacea flare-ups. Ask for something with a gentle retinoid and top with a rich, cream moisturizer.

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